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#1 (permalink) |
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OPC Staff
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Chicago 'burbs
Posts: 587
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Suspension questions
Alright, so I'm finally looking to address some suspension issues I've had with the car and I'm looking for a bit of input here, too. Should I piece something together myself, or go with something like one of the Maximum Motorsports kits? There's a pretty significant price difference between the two options, but I know you get what you pay for when going with MM's stuff.
This is what I was thinking with the MM kit: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/in...oducts_id=1054 At $2,343.39 (list price on MM's site), that's a pretty hefty price, and I don't necessarily need the K-member brace, or solid steering shaft. It also doesn't address one very important area, where I could still use new balljoints and control arm bushings in the front. I could piece something together that should be roughly equivalent for much less, but include adjustable shocks and struts: KYB AGX Sport adjustable struts - $125 (x2) KYB AGX Sport adjustable shocks - $95 (X2) Eibach Pro Kit springs - $250 Maximum Motorsports full-length subframes - $140 Eibach Anti-Roll kit - $300 Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber Plates - $200 American Muscle's upper & lower rear control arm kit - $170 Ford Racing front control arms - $260 Grand total: $1760 (plus I could still get a discount once I contact American Muscle for a coupon code) I'd figure another $100 for miscellaneous stuff like new hardware and tie rod ends, too. I know there are a few differences, like no panhard bar, and no strut tower brace, but I still own my factory one and could have my brother (machinist and certified welder) modify it so that it clears my intake and I can save money on that. I don't necessarily have to buy it all at once either, so that spreads the cost over a longer period of time and I can still get by with new and old stuff combined. Thoughts? Other options?
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Matt 1995 Mustang GT Mustang's Mods Vortech V2SQ | TFS Twisted Wedge heads | TFS 51402000 (stage 1) cam | Typhoon intake
70mm throttle body | SCT BA-2400 MAF | Siemens 60lb. injectors | Dual 255lph fuel pumps TwEECer RT | MAC off road X-pipe | Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers Cobra front brakes | 2000 Cobra R wheels | 96-98 export taillights |
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#2 (permalink) |
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OPC Staff
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 602
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Found my steeda sports new in box on ebay for 225 shipped, love them long time.
I have a set of kyb agx's that i was going to put on my wifes 01 that i never did. fronts and rears. they arent the adj. ones but im sure they are better than the stockers. from what ive read you shouldnt change the uppers if you change the lowers, something about putting the axle in a bind. I didnt understand it. MM is good stuff, if i were to build up another car i might buy one of their kits. Wow, not to derail the thread but i was looking around the steeda site and saw this http://www.steeda.com/products/gt500...e-assembly.php If only i were rich instead of good looking. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 215
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Call up UPR they will hook you up. Or build your own kit. MM stuff is Heavy duty awesome stuff but unless your going to be putting in lots of road racing hours its not needed at all. Just Springs, CC plates, Shocks, Struts, Sub conectors, and Controll arms and that thing will be on rails. Just search springs. iv got just the B kit from ford racing and i love it. its not to low so i dont hit everything and rides decent still and carves up the corners. They were like 140 bucks new. UPR controll arms/cc plates and just pick out what shocks and struts you like.
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#4 (permalink) | ||
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OPC Staff
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Chicago 'burbs
Posts: 587
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Quote:
The upper/lower deal is mostly with urethane bushings in both. Using rubber bushings in the uppers allows enough give, to prevent a lot of binding and wheel hop. I'd probably swap the bushings out in whatever brand I buy. For what I need though, I really don't need uppers, but they come in that kit I listed in the original post. I probably wouldn't get that engine you listed. I'd get an MMR longblock and put a KB, or whipple on top of it. It'd make more power than the GT500 engine for a couple grand less. ![]() Quote:
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Matt 1995 Mustang GT Mustang's Mods Vortech V2SQ | TFS Twisted Wedge heads | TFS 51402000 (stage 1) cam | Typhoon intake
70mm throttle body | SCT BA-2400 MAF | Siemens 60lb. injectors | Dual 255lph fuel pumps TwEECer RT | MAC off road X-pipe | Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers Cobra front brakes | 2000 Cobra R wheels | 96-98 export taillights |
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#5 (permalink) |
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OPC Staff
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 347
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I too would rather just go with the "build it your way" setup. MM stuff is damn nice but not necessary unless your a serious weekend racer. Seems to me like the setup you had setup would be damn good...hell I might even use it for referance later on for my car! lol
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 59
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It all depends on what you want to do with the car. I prefer having my suspension pieces all made by the same manufacturer. When i have problems, or the car not reacting properly, i cam call up the company and see what they suggest. I have called them with my spring rates and what they suggest.
My suspension set up which hooks like a fuddermucker. MM Extreme duty adjustable LCA's MM Panhard assembly MM HD Torque Arm MM full length SFC's MM CC plates 21 way adj strange shocks and struts Maybe next year i'll upgrade the k-member and switch to coil-overs. I'll guarantee it will all be MM equipment though. Made in the USA, great welding, they stand behind their products 100% |
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