Let's build my 351W shall we... - Original Pony Car

**94gtfreak** · 01-01-2010, 05:41 PM

Ok...after a long debate I've finally decided on a combo for the 94. I'm wanting to run a full roller 351W with a 70mm turbo.

I'm lookin to do this on a slim budget, so lets keep that in mind too.

So far I'm thinking:
Forged H-beam rods
Forged pistons
aluminum heads (haven't narrowed it down from that)
stock crank

Ideas anyone?

**BlownFiveLiter** · 01-01-2010, 08:04 PM

What kind of power are you looking for? You're probably safe with shot peened and polished stock rods with ARP bolts. I'm just not sure you can do the work for less than buying new rods, but it might be worth investigating. On a forced induction application, the brand of heads really isn't important, and you could probably find some Y303 GT40's for practically nothing and give them a quick hand clean up/gasket matching that should help with power. Honestly, I'd look at companies like CHP, DSS, etc. and see what they could get you a rotating assembly for. If you supply your own block, you could likely get away easier than piecing something together.

**94gtfreak** · 01-01-2010, 08:39 PM

I'm not looking for HUGE power...maybe 450? I'm gonna run all ARP studs throughout the motor for safety.

My only problem with going the full rotating assembly route is that I'd want to run something other than the factory bore. It'd be easier to start out with stock bore and crank and see what happens. I'm not looking to run massive boost and push it to the limits...yet.

**BlownFiveLiter** · 01-01-2010, 09:17 PM

Oh hell, you could get to 450 without boost. A fairly mild 351 stroker combo should be able to get there without too much difficulty. Look around on Corral for some AFR 205's or maybe even 225's. You could always put them on a stock bottom end 351 and upgrade the rotating assembly down the road.

**94gtfreak** · 01-01-2010, 09:35 PM

So...70mm, 10psi, 205's=over 450? Hmmm..

Will the 205's and 225's valves clear the pistons?

**BlownFiveLiter** · 01-01-2010, 09:51 PM

They won't clear stock pistons, but you can always pick up the Isky fly cutting tool. I think it's like $60-70, but you put it in place of the valve and chuck it in a drill. You could do it with a die grinder/Dremel, too. It's just not the preferred method, but it'll work.

**94gtfreak** · 01-09-2010, 05:59 PM

Hmm..what about different pistons? I figure that if the engine has been sitting a while that it might be better to put in new bearings and rings.

Should I run something with a dish in order to clear the 205's?

**94gtfreak** · 10-23-2011, 10:16 PM

My 351W dreams are close to becoming a reality. I've got a non roller sitting in my shed, blocks perfect but needs cleaning. I'm thinking of selling it off then grabbing a complete roller engine. Should start on it this winter!

**BlownFiveLiter** · 10-23-2011, 10:22 PM

See if you can find someone that'll trade and you're golden. Probably one of the classic guys on the "other" site would do that in a heartbeat. The late model block doesn't really have any advantage over the older block though, except for a one piece rear main seal and roller cam compatibility. You could run a roller cam in the older block with link-bar roller lifters though. They're pricey, but you'd avoid the hassle of hunting down a good block again. The late model block isn't as strong either, but still much stronger than the 302.

01-01-2010, 05:41 PM	#1 (permalink)
94gtfreak OPC Staff Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 347	Let's build my 351W shall we... Ok...after a long debate I've finally decided on a combo for the 94. I'm wanting to run a full roller 351W with a 70mm turbo. I'm lookin to do this on a slim budget, so lets keep that in mind too. So far I'm thinking: Forged H-beam rods Forged pistons aluminum heads (haven't narrowed it down from that) stock crank Ideas anyone? __________________

01-01-2010, 08:04 PM	#2 (permalink)
BlownFiveLiter OPC Staff Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Chicago 'burbs Posts: 587	What kind of power are you looking for? You're probably safe with shot peened and polished stock rods with ARP bolts. I'm just not sure you can do the work for less than buying new rods, but it might be worth investigating. On a forced induction application, the brand of heads really isn't important, and you could probably find some Y303 GT40's for practically nothing and give them a quick hand clean up/gasket matching that should help with power. Honestly, I'd look at companies like CHP, DSS, etc. and see what they could get you a rotating assembly for. If you supply your own block, you could likely get away easier than piecing something together. __________________ Matt 1995 Mustang GT Mustang's Mods Vortech V2SQ \| TFS Twisted Wedge heads \| TFS 51402000 (stage 1) cam \| Typhoon intake 70mm throttle body \| SCT BA-2400 MAF \| Siemens 60lb. injectors \| Dual 255lph fuel pumps TwEECer RT \| MAC off road X-pipe \| Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers Cobra front brakes \| 2000 Cobra R wheels \| 96-98 export taillights

01-01-2010, 08:39 PM	#3 (permalink)
94gtfreak OPC Staff Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 347	I'm not looking for HUGE power...maybe 450? I'm gonna run all ARP studs throughout the motor for safety. My only problem with going the full rotating assembly route is that I'd want to run something other than the factory bore. It'd be easier to start out with stock bore and crank and see what happens. I'm not looking to run massive boost and push it to the limits...yet. __________________

01-01-2010, 09:17 PM	#4 (permalink)
BlownFiveLiter OPC Staff Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Chicago 'burbs Posts: 587	Oh hell, you could get to 450 without boost. A fairly mild 351 stroker combo should be able to get there without too much difficulty. Look around on Corral for some AFR 205's or maybe even 225's. You could always put them on a stock bottom end 351 and upgrade the rotating assembly down the road. __________________ Matt 1995 Mustang GT Mustang's Mods Vortech V2SQ \| TFS Twisted Wedge heads \| TFS 51402000 (stage 1) cam \| Typhoon intake 70mm throttle body \| SCT BA-2400 MAF \| Siemens 60lb. injectors \| Dual 255lph fuel pumps TwEECer RT \| MAC off road X-pipe \| Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers Cobra front brakes \| 2000 Cobra R wheels \| 96-98 export taillights

01-01-2010, 09:35 PM	#5 (permalink)
94gtfreak OPC Staff Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 347	So...70mm, 10psi, 205's=over 450? Hmmm.. Will the 205's and 225's valves clear the pistons? __________________

01-01-2010, 09:51 PM	#6 (permalink)
BlownFiveLiter OPC Staff Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Chicago 'burbs Posts: 587	They won't clear stock pistons, but you can always pick up the Isky fly cutting tool. I think it's like $60-70, but you put it in place of the valve and chuck it in a drill. You could do it with a die grinder/Dremel, too. It's just not the preferred method, but it'll work. __________________ Matt 1995 Mustang GT Mustang's Mods Vortech V2SQ \| TFS Twisted Wedge heads \| TFS 51402000 (stage 1) cam \| Typhoon intake 70mm throttle body \| SCT BA-2400 MAF \| Siemens 60lb. injectors \| Dual 255lph fuel pumps TwEECer RT \| MAC off road X-pipe \| Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers Cobra front brakes \| 2000 Cobra R wheels \| 96-98 export taillights

01-09-2010, 05:59 PM	#7 (permalink)
94gtfreak OPC Staff Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 347	Hmm..what about different pistons? I figure that if the engine has been sitting a while that it might be better to put in new bearings and rings. Should I run something with a dish in order to clear the 205's? __________________

10-23-2011, 10:16 PM	#8 (permalink)
94gtfreak OPC Staff Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 347	My 351W dreams are close to becoming a reality. I've got a non roller sitting in my shed, blocks perfect but needs cleaning. I'm thinking of selling it off then grabbing a complete roller engine. Should start on it this winter! __________________

10-23-2011, 10:22 PM	#9 (permalink)
BlownFiveLiter OPC Staff Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Chicago 'burbs Posts: 587	See if you can find someone that'll trade and you're golden. Probably one of the classic guys on the "other" site would do that in a heartbeat. The late model block doesn't really have any advantage over the older block though, except for a one piece rear main seal and roller cam compatibility. You could run a roller cam in the older block with link-bar roller lifters though. They're pricey, but you'd avoid the hassle of hunting down a good block again. The late model block isn't as strong either, but still much stronger than the 302. __________________ Matt 1995 Mustang GT Mustang's Mods Vortech V2SQ \| TFS Twisted Wedge heads \| TFS 51402000 (stage 1) cam \| Typhoon intake 70mm throttle body \| SCT BA-2400 MAF \| Siemens 60lb. injectors \| Dual 255lph fuel pumps TwEECer RT \| MAC off road X-pipe \| Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers Cobra front brakes \| 2000 Cobra R wheels \| 96-98 export taillights

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