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#1 (permalink) |
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OPC Staff
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 602
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replacing tie rod ends.
found a bad tie rod when I had the tires off this weekend. Looked at my ends and they were way out of wack compared to the wifes and pulled the gun on a set of bumpsteer units from steeda. after i ordered i saw that MM had theirs on sale
![]() was poking around tonight and saw that there was no backing nut on the back of the outer TRE, any thoughts on how to mark that so i dont screw the new one on too far? I was thinking of a zip tie or a piece of wire warped around the end, something like that... not that it matters cause its probably going to have to get an alignment done anyway to fix the toe, if it does then im going to have it set up with a little camber, just cause i hate my tires! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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OPC Staff
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 602
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ok, there is a backing nut on it and got everything switched out. It might even stay together!
before ![]() after ![]() gets the alignment tomorrow, im sure they will say something about it not having a castle bolt and pin in it but the dude at steeda assured me that it wont fall apart. I did have to move the backing nut back about 1/2 inch because the steeda units are quite a bit longer than the stockers. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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OPC Staff
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Chicago 'burbs
Posts: 587
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Man, I never saw this thread. Tie rod ends are one of the easier jobs to do, once you get the rusty parts separated. I like to hit them with a torch and then some penetrating oil while they're hot, so it draws the oil into the threads. That works for just about any rusty bolt. Do you notice a difference in the suspension? I did them on an old car I had and never felt a thing. It was an SUV with sloppy steering from the factory though.
__________________
Matt 1995 Mustang GT Mustang's Mods Vortech V2SQ | TFS Twisted Wedge heads | TFS 51402000 (stage 1) cam | Typhoon intake
70mm throttle body | SCT BA-2400 MAF | Siemens 60lb. injectors | Dual 255lph fuel pumps TwEECer RT | MAC off road X-pipe | Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers Cobra front brakes | 2000 Cobra R wheels | 96-98 export taillights |
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#4 (permalink) |
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OPC Staff
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 602
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Well, I took it to get the alignment done, stopped back by on a delivery and the guy doing the work told me that the rack was shot. Pulled the boot back and fluid ran out. guess the 12 year old rack had had it. couldn't get it today and the shop is closed friday, like its a holiday or sumpin. They will have it done by lunch on monday.
Ill tell ya one thing, I didn't have the toe as close as i thought! |
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#5 (permalink) |
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OPC Staff
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Chicago 'burbs
Posts: 587
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When I rebuilt the front suspension on my old Oldsmobile Bravada, I didn't get anything close, even though I thought I did. Never bothered to get an alignment though. I traded it for a Grand Cherokee instead.
__________________
Matt 1995 Mustang GT Mustang's Mods Vortech V2SQ | TFS Twisted Wedge heads | TFS 51402000 (stage 1) cam | Typhoon intake
70mm throttle body | SCT BA-2400 MAF | Siemens 60lb. injectors | Dual 255lph fuel pumps TwEECer RT | MAC off road X-pipe | Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers Cobra front brakes | 2000 Cobra R wheels | 96-98 export taillights |
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#6 (permalink) |
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OPC Staff
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 602
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got the car back today and the first thing i noticed was that the slop in the steering was gone. next thing i noticed was that the steering was super touchy and tight. car wants to dart from side to side like a plinko chip with the slightest input. I did have them set the camber in a bit and that might have something to do with it.
I only got to drive it from the shop to home, f'n rain and i dont have any wipers. first time my cars been driven in the rain in about 4 years. |
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